Waggin Tails Pet Services

Author: Ellie Burgess

  • Dog Walking Port Perry – Challenges with Strangers

    Dog Walking Port Perry – Challenges with Strangers

    I am a dog walker with Waggin’ Tails Pet Services in Port Perry. I focus on dog walking in the Port Perry and the surrounding area.  Port Perry is a very personable town and operating my dog walking business Waggin’ Tails Pet Services in Port Perry gives me an opportunity to meet lots of dog owners on my daily walks and get to know everyone’s dogs very well.  I want to share a story with you that is so common in the dog walking’ world’.  I hope you see the humor in it.

    One day while dog walking in Port Perry a stranger approached me to pet the dog. If I have a long history with the dog, and know it enjoys this type of interaction, I would stop and allow them to do so.  There was one dog in particular that I had the most trouble with, an Airedale Terrier. He is a biter, and the owner does not allow a muzzle on her dog. Unfortunately, not everyone would heed my warnings about not touching the dog.)

    Man: “Hey, that’s a cute terrier. Can I pet your dog?”

    (In anticipation, I wind the terrier’s leash tighter while keeping an eye on the second dog, which is a German Shephard.)

    Me: “Well, sir, he’s not my dog, and I wouldn’t advise petting him as he bites.”

    Man: *stretches his arm towards the dog* “Nonsense, young lady. Terriers are the sweetest things, not like that German Shephard you have there. You really shouldn’t own German Shephard’s, you know. Crazy dangerous they are.”

    Me: *pulls the dog back* “Sir, Please do not touch the Airedale. He bites.”

    Man: *still tries to pet the dog* “He’s so cute! Look at those little ears and that tail just wagging away!”

    Me: “Sir, for the third time, please do not put your hand near the dog.”

    Man: “Let’s give you a little pat eh-YRROUCH! He bit me!”

    Me: *exasperated* “Yes, sir. He did. Did he break the skin?”

    Man: “Your dog is crazy! You should be arrested for bringing a dangerous animal in public!”

    Me: “Sir, I did warn you and for the last time it is not my dog.”

    Man: “What if I was a child?!”

    Me:  Apologizing, but also thinking “You certainly have the logic of one.”

    Now this story did end well.  The stranger accepted responsibility for his actions and the dog did not break the skin.

    Let this be a lesson to humans, please do not try to pet a dog when the owner advises otherwise.  Not every story may have this type of ending.

  • Make It A Positive Place

    Make It A Positive Place

    It works best for a dog to be introduced to a crate gradually.

    It works best for a dog to be introduced to a crate gradually, rather than just placing him in for the night or for long periods of time. When your new dog or puppy first comes home, familiarize him to the crate by tossing a treat in, leaving the door open so that the dog can go in and out freely. When your dog is comfortable going in and out of the crate, toss a treat inside and close the door for a second or two before letting the dog out.
    If you have a bed or mat that your dog already likes, put it into the crate, it will help reduce any startling noises when the dog enters the crate. The dog will also be familiar with the bed, which could make him more willing to go into the crate. When you are not training, leave the crate open and put your dog’s favorite toys inside. Feed your dog meals in the crate, starting by leaving the door open and, as training progresses, closing it. If you give your dog any special treats, or bones, give them to him in the crate. Make sure you are home when you do this so you can keep a watchful eye on him in case he starts to choke. The dog will start to associate good things with the mat after being fed on it. You can take the mat with you to vet appointments and place it on the floor in the waiting room, or on the scale and even in the exam room. This helps your dog to become more comfortable and relaxed during the visit.
    Entering and Exiting Cues
    When the puppy or dog begins to go into the crate on their own, you can start to begin using ‘cue word(s)’ to make the association. Your cue word(s) can be something like “go in”, “crate”, “bed”, etc. Say your cue before tossing a treat inside. Before you know it your dog or puppy will happily go into the crate on cue.
    Now try giving the crate cue and wait for the puppy or dog to go in on its own. Stop tossing the treat and wait for the puppy or dog to enter. When the dog does go in, say “Yes” with a bright positive tone and then feed him the treat.
    Once you feel comfortable with your pet going into the crate on their own, you can begin to train them to exit the crate. You can use words like “ok,” “free,” “out”. Using a different cue word tells your dog it is okay to leave the crate. This training will also help with encouraging and increasing self-control. Your dog learns to remain calm and not rush out, even with the crate door wide open.
    Go ahead try your cue’s now. Cue the dog to enter, say yes and then almost immediately, say your exit cue. Toss a treat on the floor outside of the crate. You can keep tossing treats until the dog can leave the crate without seeing the treat; the dog exits just hearing the release cue. At that point, you can phase out the treat and just leaving the crate becomes the dog’s reward.

    I hope you find this helpful when introducing your pet to the crate. This is the third of a four part article on crating. Stay tuned for my last article coming out soon.

    “Life is Better With a Dog”

  • Choosing Your Crate: Type, Size and Location

    Choosing Your Crate: Type, Size and Location

    There are so many types of crates available these days. It can be a bit unnerving trying to figure out the size and style to pick for your dog. The most common types of crates are wire crates, plastic crates, and fabric crates. Did you know they also makes crates that can double as an end table? Fabric crates are great if you have a small dogs and travel. They are also handing for sporting events, or for camping. You may not want to use this type if your dog is not well trained.  Since fabric crates are not very secure, it is not recommended for long-term confinement without supervision. The benefits of a fabric crate are that it is really light and it can fold flat making it easy storage and travel.

    For your pet’s home crate, you may want to use a plastic or wire crate. Plastic crates are sturdier because the walls are normally solid and it can make the dog feel more secure. Wire crates are very popular because they fold flat for storage and are more inexpensive to buy. You can also cover the wire crate with a blanket if you want to give your dog more privacy. If you have a dog than can escape easily, you may want to consider either a plastic crate or a rugged (not collapsible) metal crate. After you buy your crate and set it up, if you feel it isn’t quite as secure as you would like you reinforce its security by using zip ties.

    What size crate should you buy?  It can be so confusing.  Do you buy a large-sized crate to give the dog lots of room? If you pick a crate that is too large, your dog may use a part of the crate as a toilet. It has been recommended that you pick a crate that is just large enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lay down comfortably, at least until the dog is house trained. You can purchase wire crates that come with a divider to block off a portion of the crate in order to make it smaller. With a plastic crate, you can put a box in the back half to make the space smaller.  If you buy a crate that you can make adjusts to you will save the cost of having to buy multiple ones as the puppy grows. Once your dog is toilet trained but may not be mature enough to be left loose in the house, feel free to go with a larger crate so the dog can have room to stretch out.

    It is a good idea to place the crate in an area of the house where both you and the dog can have easy access to it. The crate should be close enough to be handy, but out of the way enough that it is not going to be tripped over constantly.  Some people will place a crate right beside their bed.  It easily helps you teach the puppy to sleep in the crate if you are right beside them and they don’t feel so alone. You can also place a crate in a corner of your living room or if your kitchen is large enough to tuck it in a corner there as well.

    This is part two of my articles on Crating.  I hope you find this helpful.  Stay tuned for part three coming soon

  • Choke Chain

    Choke Chain

    Do not leave your dog unattended on a choke chain. The chain could get caught and strangle the dog.

  • To Crate or Not To Crate?

    To Crate or Not To Crate?

    Crates – A bonus, not a penalty

    One of my recent customers asked whether or not I crate my fur guests during their stay with us.  My answer to this question was not a simple yes or no.  You see, depending on the animal, its personal history, experiences, and preferences, it will affect whether or not a crate is the right choice for them.  Not to mention, it is the owners choice not mine as to whether or not they would like to have them crated at anytime.

    This is Part 1 of a series that I will be posting on crates and their benefits.

    Many people refuse to crate or kennel-train their dogs because they feel the confinement is cruel. However, a crate or kennel can give dogs a sense of security. Crate training done properly is also a highly effective management system that can be a lifesaver for dog owners.

    If a dog is taught through positive reinforcement to love the crate, then it becomes their own private and safe place. It is somewhere the dog can go and not be bothered, and it is a perfect place for the dog to go when they are tired or nervous.

    Crate training provides a number of benefits to owners such as:

    Encourages a dog’s instinct not to mess where he sleeps; and

    Prevents them from getting into trouble when you can’t supervise directly  such as:

    • at night;
    • when you are at work;
    • when you are busy cooking;
    • anytime when your focus cannot be directly given to your fur baby.

    Crate training also teaches puppies and excitable dogs to expect and enjoy some down time, and conditions relaxed behavior. Dogs and pups can be put into a crate with a yummy and safe chew or stuffed Kong to keep them secure, relaxed, and out of mischief for periods of time.

    Always remember to remove your dog’s collar when putting them into the crate to avoid the possibility of chocking if it happens to gets caught on something.

    Stay tuned for Part 2 of this series on animal crating coming soon.

  • Getting a Tick Off Your Dog

    Getting a Tick Off Your Dog

    I recently had an interaction with a stranger whose dog was sitting in the back seat of her vehicle.  I commented on what a nice dog he was and asked how old he was. He appeared to be an older fellow, salivating profusely; glassy eyed and could barely hold his head up.  Much to my surprise her response was ‘he is two years old’!  Her eyes welled up with tears and she was quite distraught.  She told me that she was on her way to the vet again to get help for him.  He had recently been infected by a tick and had been on medicine for two weeks but nothing was working.  This was going to be her third visit to the vet.   Her anticipated outcome was not one that was going to be pleasant.   My heart sank and I gave her a hug and wished her and her fur baby well.  I prayed that she was able to have further medical treatment that would save her dog.  This tugged at my heartstrings and I hope that by reading this brief article and hope that it may help one person prevent this from happening to them or their dog.

    Even the best repellents may not prevent these parasites from latching onto your fur baby.   It can take 24 to 48 hours for an attached tick to transmit an infection to its host, so it’s important to quickly and properly remove these parasites.

    Check, please!  First, run your fingers slowly over your dog’s entire body. If you feel a bump or swollen area, check to see if a tick has burrowed there. Don’t limit your search to your dog’s torso: check between his toes, under his armpits, the insides of his ears, and around his face and chin.

    Don’t limit tick checks to your canine family members. Dogs can’t directly transmit tick-borne illnesses to people, but ticks can move from host to host. A tick may enter your home on your dog’s back and move on to another pet or human, or a tick could hitch a ride on you and then move on to one of your pets. A good tick prevention strategy includes checking all family members, especially after outdoor activities in wooded, leafy or grassy areas.

    Is it a tick?

    Ticks can be black, brown or tan, and they have eight legs. Ticks are arachnids and related to spiders, not insects. They can also be tiny—some species are only as large as the head of a pin—so look carefully.

    In some areas where there is no real winter, ticks are active all year, not just in the summer months. Even when winter is coming and there has been a killing frost, ticks can become active again if the weather turns warm for more than a day or two.

    Safe tick removal

    If you find a tick on your dog, don’t panic! Follow these quick and easy steps to safely remove the pest.

    Step 1: Get your gear

    • Pair of gloves
    • Clean pair of tweezers or a special tick remover
    • Antiseptic
    • Isopropyl alcohol

    Step 2: Remove the tick

    Wear gloves while removing the tick to avoid contact with your skin (ticks can transmit diseases to people, too).

    If you’re using tweezers:

    • Grasp the tick as close to your dog’s skin as possible, but be gentle! Try not to pinch your dog’s skin.
    • Pull outward in a straight, steady motion, making sure that you’ve removed the entire tick, since anything left behind could lead to an infection.

    If you’re using a tick remover:

    • Gently press the remover against your dog’s skin near the tick.
    • Slide the notch of the remover under the tick.
    • Continue sliding the remover until the tick is caught in the small end of the notch and is pulled free. (The tick will remain in the bowl of the remover.)

    Step 3: Store the evidence

    Drop the tick into a small container that contains isopropyl alcohol (the alcohol will quickly kill the tick), and mark the date on the container. If your dog begins displaying symptoms of a tick-borne illness, your veterinarian may want to identify or test the tick.

    Step 4: Praise your patient

    Clean your dog’s skin with antiseptic and make sure to clean your tweezers with isopropyl alcohol. Wash your hands, too! Then give your pup a treat for being a trooper.

    Follow up

    Keep an eye on the area where the tick was to see if an infection surfaces. If the skin remains irritated or infected, make an appointment with your veterinarian.

    Watch your dog for symptoms of tick-borne diseases. Some symptoms include arthritis or lameness that lasts for three to four days, reluctance to move, swollen joints, fever, fatigue, swollen lymph nodes, loss of appetite and neurological problems.

    Prevention is Key – Protect your pets from ticks and fleas.

  • Your Pet’s Fear of Thunderstorms

    Your Pet’s Fear of Thunderstorms

    Like many dog owners, you’ve probably experienced the terror that summer storms can strike in your pet. “Thunder phobia” most commonly develops in dogs between ages two and four according to animal behaviourists.. This fear can manifest as a variety of challenging behaviours—hiding, whining, scratching, slobbering, or tearing down door frames in a state of panic—and it can get worse with age. What’s important to remember is that dogs suffering from thunderstorm fear are not misbehaving, they’re displaying symptoms of anxiety.

    Vets and animal specialists aren’t certain exactly what part of a storm causes dogs the most discomfort – the noise, the flashing lights, or something else entirely. Some dogs may be worriers in general and panic at any change, while others may be overly sensitive to sound. Dogs also possess special sensitivities that make storms even more terrifying: dogs can sense the change in air pressure, and may hear low-frequency rumblings that humans can’t detect. Some vets also believe dogs experience shocks from the buildup of static electricity that accompanies thunderstorms.

    To help your dog cope with stormy weather, following are tips and suggestions that I have read in articles or have done myself with my dog(s) or dogs in my care.  I hope that you find them helpful:

    • If there are windows in the room, close the blinds or curtains, or cover the windows so the dog can’t see outside.
    • Provide a safe indoor area, like a crate. A plastic crate is preferable, but if you have a wire crate, you can cover it with a sheet to create the feeling of a haven. Leave the door open so the dog does not feel trapped.
    • Play calming music to drown out the thunder claps.
    • Stay with the dog.
    • Try to distract your dog with treats and familiar games.
    • If your dog seems most upset by sound, you can try desensitization. Download thunderstorm sounds and practice by playing them quietly to your dog, and give the dog treats or play a fun game with him while the sound is on. Gradually, over weeks, increase the volume. Stop the play or treats when the sounds are turned off. The goal is to help your dog relate the sound of thunderstorms with happy times.
    • Use calming massage to reassure the dog.
    • There are a few products that might help your dog relax as well. A tight jacket known as a   Thundershirt gives  a sensation of pressure, which can lessen your  pets’ anxiety. I equate it to the same principle as swaddling a baby. You can also make a DIY version by buying a small T-shirt and putting the dog’s front legs through the armholes of the shirt. The shirt should fit snugly around your dog’s torso.
    • Eye cover known as  the  Thumdercap reduces visual stimulation and can be soothing to dogs.
    • In severe cases, your veterinarian may recommend a low dose of an anti-anxiety medication.  Your veterinarian is the best person to talk to when it comes to helping your dog cope with storms.
    • Most importantly, practice positive reinforcement with your dog. Do not scold or punish her for her displays of anxiety, but remember that her behavior is not about disobedience, but about high levels of fear.  Do anything you can to help your dog feel better; teaching her new, pleasant associations is the best way to reduce fearful behavior.

    I hope these tips help you and your dog get through the possible storm we may get today, or future ones to come.

  • De-Skunking Your Dog

    De-Skunking Your Dog

    Like every morning, I put my dogs outside for their daily ritual.  Something caught me by surprise, that eminent smell that we all know too well….Skunk!!! I immediately called them over to me and put their leashes on in case one happened to spot it and go chase after it. We all know how that would work out! As a dog owner if you have never experienced the awful smell once your dog gets sprayed by a skunk you will be in for quite a surprise.  I have had many dogs in my life and yes, this has happened to me more than once.  I remember years ago my son opening the basement door and our dog came running up the stairs, through the main level, and then up one more flight of stairs…he managed to stink up the whole house.

    Skunks live all over the place, and if your dog gets curious about one, she may end up with a face full of stink. If your dog gets sprayed, there are ways you can rid her of the scent without having to buy up every can of tomato juice in the area. Believe me; I have done this in the past.

    Over-the-counter products (such as Nature’s Miracle Skunk Odor Remover) are a quick fix, but if you don’t have that on hand, you can prep the solution below.

    Step 1: Keep Fido outside

    You’ll probably want to keep your dog outside while you get it together so she doesn’t carry the smell indoors. Check her eyes; if they’re irritated or red, immediately flush them with cool water.

    Step 2: Mix the Ingredients

    Mix together:

    • 1 quart of 3-percent hydrogen peroxide (available at any pharmacy)
    • 1/4 cup baking soda
    • 1 teaspoon liquid dishwashing soap

    Wearing rubber gloves wash your dog with this solution immediately after she’s been sprayed. DO NOT get the solution in her eyes. (If you don’t have peroxide, baking soda, and liquid soap on hand, use vinegar diluted with water.)

    Caution: Do NOT store this mixture or make it ahead of time, as the mixture could explode if left in a bottle.

    Step 3: Clean and rinse

    Rub the mixture through her fur, but don’t leave it on too long (peroxide can bleach fur). Rinse her thoroughly.

    Step 4: Shampoo

    Next, wash your dog with pet shampoo and rinse thoroughly. By now, she should be de-skunked and smelling sweet. Thoroughly towel-dry your dog, and be sure to place her in a warm, sunny room for the next couple of hours so that she doesn’t get chilled.

    Owner cleanup

    If your dog rubbed some of the stink onto you, you can rid your clothes of the smell by using regular laundry soap mixed with a half-cup of baking soda.

    Remember, before opening that door too quickly  try and take a moment to “smell the air”, it may save you and your dog a lot of heartache.

  • Walking Your Buddy – The Importance of Dog Walking

    Walking Your Buddy – The Importance of Dog Walking

    Walking your Buddy (or Spot or Fido) is so much more than just a way of exercising man’s best friend. It stops him or her from getting bored, it’s a behavior training opportunity, and it teaches your dog how to behave in canine company. On top of all this, it gets both of you out and about while helping to grow the bond you have with your dog.

    A sedentary pooch can quickly become an overweight one, and that brings all sorts of potential health problems with it. Even if your dog is active inside the home, they still need another outlet for pent-up energy. Young dogs need around an hour of daily exercise, but some dogs bred for sports or herding activities may need much more. You will benefit from having a well-exercised dog, as tired dogs tend to behave better, and you’ll help your pet avoid unnecessary weight gain!

    If your dog has a yard to play in, dog walking isn’t the only form of exercise available. However, don’t expect your dog to create their own exercise routine just because you’ve put them outside. Dogs don’t self-entertain, so if you want to tire your pet out, play catch or fetch! If you’re at work all day, consider asking a friend to take your dog out during those hours. Your pet will enjoy the company, and you’ll come home to a happier dog waiting to greet you.

    When walking your dog, consider it a training opportunity! Dogs aren’t born knowing how to walk on a leash, so you’ll have to teach your dog how to follow your lead. On these walks, you can begin teaching commands like, “sit,” “stay,” and “heel,” especially if you take treats along to use during the process.

    While out dog walking, your pooch is most likely going to meet other dogs. This is a great opportunity to help your dog learn acceptable ways of socially interacting with new animals! It will also help build doggy confidence so your pet will be less afraid to make friends. If your dog does show fear, taking them to a training class is a great way of removing that anxiety in a more controlled environment. Well-socialized pups still like a bit of rough-and-tumble play with other dogs when out for a walk, but they’ll know when to stop and will come away without any battle scars.

    Like a child, your dog wants to know the world. If they are confined to the house for too long, pets get bored, and boredom can lead to destructive behavior. Wild animals learn about their environment through mothers and members of the clan, and a domesticated animal only has that opportunity for a few weeks while with their mothers and siblings. Your dog is dependent on you to take them out to explore the sights, smells, and sounds of the world, and it’s recommended to vary the places you take your pet as much as possible. You’ve probably noticed how busy (and excited!) your dog gets when he’s walking, so let them enjoy every opportunity to discover! Too busy to get out of the house with your four-legged friend?

    Contact Waggin’ Tails Pet Services by email sue@waggintailspetservices.ca or by calling  905-718-2494  today and get your pet started on a regular walking routine today.